Oveeedge stitching



'4 Sheets-Sheet 1.

No Model.)

A. C. SAXT-ON.

METHOD OF AND MAOHINE FOR FQRMING OVEREDGE STITGHING.. No. 358,574.

Patented Mar. 1, 1887.

' Wzi/zaww (No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

A. G. SAXTON.

-METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR FORMING OVEREDGESTITGHING No. 358,574. Patented Mar. 1, 1887.

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet A. 0. SAXTON.

METHOD OF AND MAGHINE FOR FORMING OVEREDGE STITCHING. N0. 358,574. PatentedMamx 1, 1887..

(No Model. 4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

A. 0. SAXT ON.

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR FORMINGOVEREDGE STITGHING.

No. 858,574. Patented Mar. 1, 1887.

N. PE1 7R5. wmo-um n her, Washington/( 7: Q

Unirrn STATES amnrwr FFTQFQ AUGUSTUS O. SAXTON, OF BROOKLYN, ASSIGNOR TO GEORGE S. BRAOHER AND JOHN VAN GELDER, BOTH OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR FORMING OVER-EDGE STITCHING.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 358,574, dated March 1, 1887. Application filed October 21, 1885. Serial No. 180,492. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, AUGUSTUS O. SAXToN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Brooklyn, county of Kings, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of and Machines for Forming Over-Edge Stitching, of which the following is aspecification.

This invention relates to over-edge stitching, and covers certain new and unique mechanical devices, whereby this class of stitching may be rapidly performed, and a firmer and more secure stitch made by the employment of a single thread than has heretofore been done.

My improvements in sewingmachines relate to an improved method of forming overedge stitches by means of a single-thread sewing-machine having an eye-pointed reciprocating needle, presser-foot, feeding device, and supporting-plate, whereby the goods are fed under the needle, and the needle caused to pierce the same near the edge in the ordinary manner.

The invention embraces a looper, which consists of an irregularly-shaped piece of metal that mayperhaps be best designated as a spirally-formed wire having a bill'shaped point, so actuated and controlled by certain mechanical devices as to be under the combined actions of three full movements in different directionsviz., a rotation on its axis, a longitudinal movement on its axial line, and one of position rocking to and from the needle, by all of which its bill-shaped point is caused to take the thread from the front side of the needle at the under side of the goods, carry the loop upward in a helical direction over the edge of the goods while the needle is being withdrawn from the goods and bring the loop under the point of the needle when it is in its highest position, so that the needle in its descent passes through the loop, which is then left on the needle by the retrograde movements of the looper-via, its backward movement of position, its retrograde rotation on its axis, and its downward longitudinal movement, at the com pletion of which movements the point of the looper is in its lowest position underthe goods to again take the'thread from the needle. The

action of the looper is such as to twist the loop of thread as it is being carried around the edge of the goods from the under to the upper side, thereby making the stitch firmer and more secure, especially when employed to bind and hold a reed or cord on the edge of the goods. A. tension-guide is provided in the plate of the machine to act on the loop to keep it taut when it is being carried over the edge of the goods by the looper, which, with the devices employed to actuate the looper, will be now fully described, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1, Sheet 1, is a side elevation of a sewing-machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2, Sheet 1, is a horizontal section of the same on the line a; m, Fig. 1. Fig. 3, Sheet 2, is an end view. Figs. at, 5, and 6, Sheet 2, are an enlarged side elevation in section, front elevation, partly in section, and plan view, respectively, of the stitch-forming mechanism, with the looper over the goods. Figs. 7, 8, and 9, Sheet 2, are similar views with the looper under the goods. Figs. 10 and 11, Sheet 2, are enlarged views illustrating the formation of the stitch. Figs. 12 and 13, Sheet 3, represent two pieces of goods sewed together by means of my improvements; and Fig. 14, Sheet 3, shows a modification in the mechanism for operating the looper. Fig. 15, Sheet 4:, is an enlarged elevation of the spiral looper.

The looper and its operating mechanismare shown applied to the single-thread machine, known as the Willcox 8t Gibbs sewing-machine, which, being so well understood, both as regards its construction and mode of operation, it is unnecessary to here describe, the only material changes made being the substitution of my looper for the old one and the formation of the tensionguide in the supporting-plate.

The looper consists of a spiral wire, u, having a billshaped point, with a shoulder, a, on the under side of it, and a notch, a", in the upper side for forming the loop in the thread, and an internal shoulder, (4 for insuring the retention of the thread on the point as it is taken from the needle. It is secured in the top of a cylindrical plug, 1), fitted in the tubular holder 0, and is provided with a small roller, 1), which projects from its side, and works in the spiral slot 0, formed in the holder 0. To impart rotary motion to said looper, the lower part of the plug b may be provided with the deep slot 12 into which fits the long fiat head (1 of the shaft d, forming a part of or secured to the pinion 6. This shalt d has bearings in the juncture of the two pieces of metal, which constitute the rocking block f by being secured together by the screws f f f, and the tubular holder 0 is securely clamped in the upper end of the block, concentric with the shaft d. The blockf is held between the ears 9 g on the base ofthe machine, and the shaft or pin 9 passes through them and the lower end of the block, and constitutesthe center on which the block is rocked, as hereinafter described, so as to impart to thelooper a a sidewise movement of position to properly manipulate the thread.

Now, it will be observed that when the pinion (2 is rotated in the direction indicated by the arrow in Fig. 7 the flat end d of the shaft d causes the plug 1), with the looper a, to rotate with it, and as the roller b is confined in the spiral slot 0' of the holder 0 the plug and looper are at the same time raised and assume the position shown in Figs. 4, 5, and 6. A reverse movement of the pinion e imparts to them a retrograde rotation and downward movement and causes them to assume the position shown in Figs. 7, 8, and 9.

The upper and lower ends of the spiral slot 0 finish into short straight slots, so that the plug b and looper a have no vertical movement for a short interval at the limits of their rotation-that is, when the looper is taking the thread from the needle h, as shown at Figs. 7 8, and 9, and when the needle is taking the loop from the looper a, as shown at Figs, 4, 5, and 6.

, Reciprocal rotary motion may be imparted to the shaft d and a rocking motion to the block f by means of any suitable mechanism actuated from any suitable moving part of the machine. In the drawings such mechanism consists of the segmental gear 1', pivoted on the vertical stud i, secured in the base of the machine, and receives its motion from the cam j, secured to themain shaftl by means of the roller 9" on the end of the arm Z projecting from the hub of the segmental gear i, and the block f is controlled and rocked on its center by means of the cam m, into which fits the -roller 'm on the end of the bent link a, the

of the longitudinal movement of the pinion 6 with the plug b, as shown in Fig. 14, the pinion 0 being then made long, so as to remain in mesh with the segmental geart' as it moves up and down with the plug 1). j

The plate 0 has formed in it an opening, 0, suflicientlylarge for the looper to pass'through, and shaped, as clearly shown in Figs. 10 and 11, to connect with the hole through which the needle passes. The curved rounded edge 0 acts as'a tension-guide to insure the proper formation of the stitch by the looper a, as hereinafter described. The presser-foot q is also cut away to allow for the free action of the looper, as shown in Figs. 4, 5, and 6, and the feed r is shaped as shown at Fig. 2 and actuated in the ordinary manner.

The camsj and m are timed and set to work with the other parts of the machine, to cause the looper to co-operate with the needle and feed, as follows: The article to be sewed, where shown in connection with the mechanism, is represented as a hat-sweat in the drawings, and consists of a strip of material, 5, on the edge of which it is desired to secure the reed or cord 8,. These are placed in position under the presser-foot q, so that the needle h will pierce the strip near its edge, and after being properly threaded and the machine operated descend through the goods into the vertical groove 0 in the tubular holder 0. The looper a is now in its lowest position, and is rotated as soon as the needle commences its upward course, so that its bill-shaped point takes the thread from the front of the needle, as shown at Figs. 7,8, and 9, and carries it in a loop up through the opening 0 of the plate 0. During such carrying of the loop it is in contact with the curved rounded edge 0 which acts as a guide'to keep the loop taut, as shown at Fig. 11, until the looper attains such a position that the loop slips off the rounded end of the edge 0 and around the reed or cord 8, or the edge of the goods being sewed, and the looper a eventually arrives at the position shown in Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 10, it having been moved forward by the rocking of the block f, so that its point is behind the needle h, and the loop is held open by means of the shoulder a and the notch a for the needle to pass through it in its next descent. While the looper is completing its movement, as just described, the feed r moves the goods forward, acting in conjunction with the, tension-guide edge 0 to maintain a uniform tension on the loop, as well as to place the goods in position for the formation of the succeeding stitch.

It will be observed that the looper in carrying the loop helically from the under to the upper side of the goods imparts to the same a twist, as clearly shown in the enlarged views. This twisting of the loop adds greatly to the security of the sewing. Said twist may occur on the extreme edge, as shown, or in other parts of the stitch, according .to the tension of the thread and the adjustment of the moving parts of the machine.

WVhen the needle'h has passed through the loop, Fig. 10. the retrograde movements of the looper take place, leaving theloop on the needle, the point of the looper arriving in its lowest position in time to again take the thread from the needle at the under side of the goods and form the next stitch, as before described.

As well as forming a binding overedge stitch, my improvements are well adapted to be used to bind or sew two pieces of goods together with their edges butting. This is accomplished by placing the two pieces of goods, t and t, together, one above the other, with their edges in line, as shown in the sectional 'view, Fig. 13, and sewing them together in the it understood that I do not confine myself to the particularconstruction of the mechanical devices employed, asshown, to impart the proper movements to the looper to cause it to co-operate with the other parts of my machine, as any devices adapted to this purpose will come within the scope of my invention.

What I claim ,and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. The improved method of forming singlethread over-edge stitches, which consists in passing the thread through the goods in the form of a loop, taking this loop from the under side of the goods, twisting it, and passing it around the edge and over the upper side of the goods, and then passing a second loop of the same thread through this loop as the thread is passed through the goods in commencing the next stitch, substantially as set forth.

2. The combination, with an eye-pointed needle and its reciprocating mechanism, of a spirally-shaped looper carried bya holder in a pivoted frame, and mechanism, substantially as described, whereby the looper is aetuated to rotate and take the thread from the needle at the under side of the goods, twist it and carry it over the edge of the goods and move toward the needle, and hold the loop of thread open for the needle to pass through it, as set forth.

3. The combination, with a reciprocating eye-pointed needle and spiral looper, in conjunction with mechanism by which it is rotated, moved longitudinally, and moved to and from the needle, so as to take the loop from the needle at the under side of the goods, carry it over the edge of the goods, and hold it in position for the needle to pass through it when forming the next stitch, of a tensionguide consisting of the part of the edge of the hole in the plate of the maehine,through which the looper passes, formed so as to catch the loop of thread and keep it taut while it is being carried over the edge of the goods by the looper, substantially as set forth.

4. In a sewing-machine, in combination, a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, a spiral looper, and mechanism for. holding it, moving it longitudinally, and moving it to and from the needle by which it is operated, to take the thread from the needle, twist and carry it over the edge of the goods, a tensionguide formed by a part of the edge of the holein the plate ofthe machine,through which the looper passes, to keep the loop or thread taut during its passage over the edge of the goods, and a feeding device for moving the goods forward and keeping the loop taut on the looper when the loop slips overthe edge of the tensionguide, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

5. In a sewing-machine, a spirally-formed looper, in combination with mechanical means constructed and operated substantially as described, whereby it receives three full movements in different directionsviz., a reciprocating rotary device by which it is rotated on its axis, a helical slot in its holding-bearing which imparts to it a longitudinal movement on its axial line, and a lateral bearing on its holding-framc, and reciprocating mechanism connected thereto, which imparts to it an os cillating or rocking movement, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

6. The combination, with the reciprocating eye-pointed needle 71, of the spiral looper to, having a shoulder, a, on its under side near the point, the notch c on its upper side, and the internal shoulder, a", and mechanism for rotating the looper on its axis, moving it 1011-. gitudinally, and oscillating it to and from the needle, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

7. In combination, the spiral looper a, the plug I), having a slot, b, and provided with the roller 1), the tubular holder 0, provided with the spiral groove 0, and the shaft d, with the flat head 01, and reciprocating rotary mechanism for actuating the shaft d, substantially as described.

8. In combination, the looper a, plug 1), tubular holder 0, shaft (1, with pinion e, seg' mental gear i, and reciprocating or rocking holding-block f, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

9. In combination, the cams and m on the main shaft of a sewing-machine, segmental gear t',with arm t", rocking on a stud from the base of the machine, pinion e on shaft d, held mechanism for imparting a rotary movement, a longitudinal movement, and an oscillating movement to the looper a, the plate 0, with the tension guide 0, the needle h, mechanism for vertically reciprocating the needle, and a feeding device, 9, and its operating mechanism, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

11. In combination, the spiral looper a, mechanism for imparting a rotary movement, a longitudinal movement, and an oscillating movement to the looper a, the plate 0, with the tensionguide 0 the eye-pointed needle h, with its reciprocating mechanism, the feeding device 1", with its operating mechanism, and the presser-foot q, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

12. In combination, the spiral looper a, plug 1), provided with roller b, to which plug the looper is attached, the tubular holder 0, with 20 the spiral groove 0, having straight parts at its ends, and the longitudinal slot 0 and the needle 72, vertically reciprocated so as to enter the slot 0 substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand, at New York, county and State of New York, this 10th day of December. 1884:.

AUGUSTUS O. SAXTON.

Witnesses:

J os.. S. MICHAEL, J osEPH B. LYMAN. 

